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Gale Pencil Skirt With Godet: Sewing Instructions

Notes and tips​

Garment rise​

This garment defaults to sitting at the natural waist. The waist drop option may be used to move the garment waistline down toward the hips.

Fit​

Pencil skirts are tight. Unless Gale is to be sewn directly on the wearer, stretchy fabric, a zipper, or both should be used to allow the wearer to don and doff the garment.A zipper may be added to the side or back seams with the default options.

Zipper​

By default, an invisible zipper is assumed in the back seam where the godet is. The cut front on fold option allows the zipper to be placed on the front center; while the side seams are always an option.

Darts​

Darts are used to compensate for the difference between your waist and the ease added for comfort. The number of darts in patterns depend on style, there are often four darts in the back, and two darts in front as in this pattern.

Construction​

Step 1: Darts​

  • Sew all the darts.
  • Press the darts towards the back.
    • For the back piece(s), that means you press the darts towards each other.
    • For the front piece, that means you press the darts towards the side seams.

Step 2: The Godet: Part I​

  • With , Sew the godet to one of its adjacent panels

Step 3: The Zipper (aka Godet Part II?)​

  • With , sew the seam that has the zipper leaving the top open for the zipper.
  • Insert the zipper into the seam following the procedure that is appropriate for the type of zipper you’re using.
note

If using a different closure, construct it during this step.

Step 4: Sew the side seams​

  • With , sew up both the side seams.

Step 5: The lining (Optional)​

You can skip this step if not making a lining.

  • Follow Step 1 - 4 to construct the lining with the following changes:
    • Adjust the darts to compensate for the extra ‘ease’ in the lining pieces.
    • Do not include the zipper but leave the opening in the zipper seam.
  • Attach the lining to the body in your preferred way.
note

How to distribute the extra ‘ease’ is up to you. You can either add it to the darts by increasing them. Or you can add another dart or box pleat in the middle.

warning

If you prefer to insert the zipper with the main and lining fabric as one, you will need to omit inserting the zipper until this step.

Step 6: The Hem​

  • If desired, face the hem.
  • Press under the hem allowances of the skirt.
  • If hem is large enough, press under a small amount along the top; this will help to prevent fraying.
  • Secure the hem in place with your preferred method. For instance you can sew from the outside or from the inside. This comes down to how you want the finished product to look.
tip

If the seam allowances are big enough you can sew the hems as narrow hems. This is especially useful if your fabric is prone to fraying.

Step 7: Enjoy!​

  • Now all that’s left to do is to enjoy the new skirt!